Switzerland is one of Europe's most visited countries, but one of its least understood. Pass through for a day or two, as most people do, and you'll get the quaint stereotype of Switzerland that the locals deem suitable for public consumption - the Alpine idyll of cheese and chocolate, Heidi and the Matterhorn. Stay longer though and another Switzerland will emerge, the one which the Swiss inhabit, and one which can be an infinitely more rewarding place to explore. Sights are breathtaking, transport links are excellent, costs are no higher than in Britain or Germany, and the locals are unfailingly courteous. Almost everyone speaks some English along with at least one of the official Swiss languages (German, French, Italian, or, in the southeast, Romansh).
Of the northern German-speaking cities in Switzerland, Zürich has a wealth of sightseeing and nightlife possibilities and provides easy access to the tiny independent principality of Liechtenstein overlooking the Rhine river. This most beautiful of cities, astride a river and turned towards a crystal-clear lake and distant snowy peaks, has plenty to recommend it. You can people-watch on crowded, multi-ethnic streets; drink, dance or hang out at bars and clubs as hip and varied as those in more celebrated European cities; and feel a lived-in urban buzz that contradicts the Swiss stereotype. The steep, cobbled alleys of the Old Town are perfect for exploratory wanderings, and with an engaging café culture and a wealth of nightlife, you could easily spend days here.
The narrow pedestrian-only streets of the medieval Niederdorf district in Zürich stretch south along the east bank of the River Limmat, tranquil during the day and bustling after dark. The waterfront is lined with fine Baroque Zunfthäuser (guildhalls), arcaded lower storeys fronting the quayside, their extravagantly decorated dining-rooms now mostly upmarket restaurants. The west bank is the site of most business and commercial activity. Bahnhofstrasse is one of the most prestigious shopping streets in Europe, an enduring symbol of Zürich's wealth and a stark counterpoint to the quaintness of the Niederdorf alleys. Paradeplatz is a tram-packed little square offering some of the best people-watching in the city, and it is also where most of Switzerland's banks are headquartered. The narrow lanes between Bahnhofstrasse and the river lead up to the Lindenhof courtyard, site of a Roman fortress and customs post. James Joyce wrote Ulysses in Zürich (1915-19), and the Joyce Foundation, nearby at Augustinergasse 9, can point you to his various hangouts and his grave.
An excellent fine-weather excursion from Zürich is to the Rhine falls (www.rheinfall.ch), Europe's largest waterfalls, which tumble 3km west of the northern Swiss town of Schaffhausen. They are truly magnificent, not so much for their height (a mere 23m) as for their impressive breadth (150m) and the sheer drama of the place, with spray rising in a cloud of rainbows above the forested banks. The turreted castle Schloss Laufen on the south bank completes the spectacle. Other "must see" sites in Zurich include The Karlsturm church for a spectacular view of the city; Peterskirche for a look at the largest clock face in Europe; the Kunsthaus museum for sculptures by Rodin, Moore and Tinguely; and the Fraumünster church for a look at Marc Chagall's stained-glass windows.
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Previous Destinations:
• Japan
• The Bahamas
• Zurich, Switzerland
• Fairbanks, Alaska
• San Diego, California
REMINDER: PASSPORT REQUIREMENTS
Traveling abroad? It's important you know your passport, visa, and health requirements, which vary by destination. Make sure you get all the information you need well in advance of your trip.
As of January 1, 2008, passports will be required for all U.S. citizens traveling to or from the United States via land as well as air or sea, regardless of destination. As of January 8, 2007, passports will be required for all U.S. citizens traveling to or from the United States via air or sea, to or from Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda.
For more information on travel requirements, contact the U.S. embassies of the countries you're visiting. A complete list of U.S. embassies worldwide can be found at the Department of State Web site.
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